Fish is, for me, almost as beloved as lamb when it comes to curry. My fondness for fish curries began when I was fourteen, tutoring a girl who lived on my street twice a week. Her family was Bangladeshi and they always made sure I ate before I left. Fish featured on their table frequently, and I discovered a whole world of varieties and flavours I had not encountered at home.
Before that time I only knew of tilapia, cod and salmon. With my new friends I learned about many more types of fish, each with its own size, texture and taste. Those regular meals opened my eyes to the subtle differences that make fish an ideal protein for many kinds of curries, from lightly spiced and steamed preparations to richer, pan-reduced sauces.
The fish used here is called Pabda. I bought it from a Bangladeshi shop in a frozen block, head and all. At first I was intimidated by the whole fish with its head still attached and, embarrassingly, I pushed it to the back of the freezer for a while. I knew I could cook it whole, but couldn’t initially bring myself to do so.
A friend came over for dinner recently and I wanted to serve something a bit more special than the daal chaawal I had planned. I retrieved the Pabda, braced myself and removed the head and innards. The process was far less unpleasant than I had imagined. Once I had cleaned and prepared the fish, I felt much more confident about handling different kinds of fish in future.
‘Bhuna’ is a cooking technique that traditionally involves frying ingredients over high heat until the water evaporates and the flavours concentrate. When cooking delicate fish, vigorous stirring and tossing would break it up, so I adapted the bhuna approach: I cooked the onions and tomatoes until most of their water had reduced and they still held some texture, then gently steamed the fish in that masala until cooked through. The result is a curry that has concentrated flavour without losing the fish’s delicate texture.
Pabda has a soft, delicate flesh that separates easily from the bones, making it a pleasure to eat. This preparation balances bold spice with gentle cooking, so the fish remains tender and intact. I served it with tadka daal and a bright, zesty salad, but it is equally good with plain white basmati rice or a crisp naan. My friend enjoyed this meal a lot, and I was happy to have turned an intimidating frozen block into a comforting dinner.
Enjoy this simple, home-style Pabda Fish ‘Bhuna’ — a recipe that highlights the gentle nature of the fish while delivering the rich, layered flavours of South Asian cooking. With a few basic spices and a careful hand, you can make a curry that feels both comforting and special.
📋 Recipe
Pabda Fish ‘Bhuna’
30 minutes
30 minutes
2
Ingredients
- ½ lb (250 g) Pabda fish
- 2 onions sliced thin and long
- 4 cloves garlic minced
- 2 medium tomatoes chopped
- 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander powder
- 1 teaspoon Kashmiri red chilli powder
- ½ teaspoon red chilli flakes
- 2 teaspoon salt
- 0.5 teaspoon turmeric
- 1 green chili for garnish
- Fresh coriander for garnish
- 4 tablespoon oil
- Additional oil for frying the fish as needed
Instructions
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Begin by removing the fish head. Cut at an angle and clean the cavity thoroughly with a sharp knife, removing the innards and rinsing the fish well.
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Rub the fish with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon turmeric. Place the fish in a colander to marinate and drain for at least 30 minutes. This helps firm the flesh and infuses basic seasoning.
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Heat oil until very hot and fry the fish for 1–2 minutes on each side. You can shallow-fry or deep-fry depending on preference. Remove and set the fish aside on a paper towel-lined plate.
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In a wide skillet that will fit the fish in one layer, warm 3–4 tablespoons of oil. Add the sliced onions and minced garlic and sauté on medium-high heat until the onions turn lightly golden and soft.
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Add the chopped tomatoes, cumin seeds, ground coriander, Kashmiri red chilli powder, red chilli flakes, salt and turmeric. Increase heat and cook until the tomatoes begin to break down and release some water, creating a saucy masala but still retaining some texture.
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Arrange the fried fish in a single layer on top of the masala. Spoon some of the onion-tomato mixture over the fish pieces. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and let it simmer gently for about 5 minutes or until the fish is just cooked through and infused with the masala flavours.
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Garnish with chopped fresh coriander and thinly sliced green chilli. Serve immediately with steamed basmati rice or warm naan for a comforting meal.
Notes
Kashmiri red chilli powder gives a milder heat and vibrant red colour. If you don’t have it, substitute with regular red chilli powder to taste, adjusting the amount to suit your spice tolerance.
This recipe adapts well to other firm white fish, whether bone-in or boneless. Adjust frying and simmering times slightly for thicker or thinner fillets to avoid overcooking.
To make the dish ahead, prepare the masala and keep it refrigerated. Fry the fish just before serving and combine for the final gentle simmer to retain the fish’s texture.
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